At one of the sites that I look after, management decided to save some money, and bought a Netgear GS724Tv3 gigabit switch.
Please don't do that. It's a piece of shit switch that will cause you headaches if your needs are in any way advanced.
First of all, if you need VLANs, don't buy this switch - Netgear will charge you extra for support of VLANs, since it's a premium service.
If you actually need support with VLANs, one way to deal with this, is to call, ask for VLAN support, be told that it's extra fee service, at which point ask for the RMA number. Tell them that the box tells that the switch supports VLANs, but since you follow instructions, and the VLANs do not work, the switch must obviously be defective, and you would like it replaced. At which point Netgear support will tell you that they will have to test that the switch is in fact defective, and will escalate to someone with a clue.
I talked to a second level tech, named Jake, agent ID 5703. Jake has a clue. Jake has lots of clues. Be level with him, tell him what you're trying to do, and why you ended up escalated to him, and he will help.
For the reference, if you want to put the management VLAN on a different VLAN then 1, here is what you have to do:
- Create a new VLAN
- Add ports to the new VLAN, remove them from default VLAN, and save
- Go to the trunking menu (same sub-menu as VLANs), and give the ports on the new VLAN different ID then the ports on the default VLAN
- Go to the management IP menu, and change the management IP VLAN
Without the boldened step you will lock yourself out of the switch and need to do a factory reset. For what it's worth, the default IP the switch self-assigns if it can't find a DHCP server on the network is 192.168.0.239.
Now, Netgear GS724T v3 has a serial port inside, and a command line interface. You can verify that the CLI exists by looking at the logs. You can pull the switch apart, and you will see the serial port header (10 pin) at position J1. Problem is that it doesn't have the MAX232 chip and some resistors in position U2 and similar, so you won't get a signal if you hook up a serial header to it. Basically same idea as with some models of WRT54G and similar - need to take a file tweak the thing by hand to get it to work.
I didn't bother soldering the MAX232 on, and experimenting with resistors (although if you do, please post and comment) and just returned the thing - it had issues with multiple VLANs besides the issue I documented above.